Photo illustration by Lille Allen; see below for full credits
If I’m spending $25 on eight ounces of lump crabmeat, I want to taste it
There’s something about dip that just sets off a sense of primal delight. It’s that combination of eating with your hands and the sheer spectacle of a big bowl of (usually and in the best cases) something creamy and cheesy. And crab dip? That’s absolutely one of my favorites. It’s why I love crab rangoon; they’re basically full of crab dip. When it comes to classic crab dip — the kind that’s meant to be served hot — I expect a few things: Old Bay seasoning for sure, hunks of lump crabmeat, and a level of creaminess that would make some people reach for their Lactaid.
In pursuit of the perfect crab dip, I tested some popular hot crab dip recipes from around the internet, all with a side of buttery crackers. As it turns out, most recipe developers use a very similar crab dip structure, but little tweaks to it can have big effects on the end result. Here’s how my testing shook out.
Old Bay Crab Dip Recipe
McCormick
McCormick’s official Old Bay crab dip recipe is as simple as it gets: a base that’s equal parts mayonnaise and cream cheese, a little cheddar, lump crabmeat, Old Bay (obviously), and ground mustard. It requires nothing but a bowl and a spatula, and as long as you remember to soften the cream cheese in advance, you can whip up the dip in under five minutes, baking time not included. I did the math and found that this recipe had a 1:1 ratio of crabmeat to creamy base, not including the cheddar.
As soon as the dip came out of the oven, I immediately wanted to plunge a cracker into it. Bubbly around the edges and covered with a layer of lightly browned cheese, it had the indulgence I expect from a crab dip. The Old Bay added essential flavor and saltiness, while the ground mustard (don’t skip it!) contributed crucial sharpness and amplified similar notes in the cheddar. That this dip is so mayo-based was made clear by both its flavor and texture (whether this is a good or bad thing depends on you). It was the least runny of the recipes I tried, holding its shape wherever I dug into it with my spoon.
Crab Dip (Maryland Style)
Sally McKenney, Sally’s Baking Recipes
Where McCormick’s crab dip recipe uses equal parts cream cheese and mayo, Sally McKenney’s cuts the mayo with some sour cream. This recipe, which comes up first when you Google “Maryland crab dip,” also calls for an ample amount of seasoning. In addition to Old Bay and ground mustard, it uses lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and hot sauce (technically optional, but I went for it). As with McCormick’s crab dip, cheddar is mixed in and sprinkled on top. Where the recipe most differs from McCormick’s is in the amount of effort required: McKenney calls for using a handheld or stand mixer, which I felt was unnecessary after trying the finished dip.
This recipe came out of the oven looking similar to the McCormick version, which is to say, how a crab dip should look, in my opinion. It was slightly thinner and runnier but still had a pleasant creamy texture that reminded me of mac and cheese. That made sense given that this recipe has a cup more of cheddar than McCormick’s. It was well-seasoned, though a bit cheese-heavy, if I’m nitpicking. The texture of the crab came through nicely, more like the creamy base was coating it than competing with it. The ratio of crabmeat to base fell right in the middle of the other two recipes I tested, and it definitely felt like the middle ground.
Healthy Hot Crab Dip
Katie Webster, Healthy Seasonal Recipes
What makes this crab dip recipe “healthy” is that it relies on a base of mostly reduced-fat cream cheese, with some Greek yogurt and a small amount of mayonnaise (a scant 3 tablespoons, compared to the McCormick’s full cup). Instead of the more typical cheddar, it calls for a small amount of Parmesan. What the recipe lacks in rich ingredients it attempts to make up for in flavor, with a combination of Sriracha, Old Bay, lemon zest and juice, and scallions. Like McKenney’s recipe, it calls for a mixer. (As with McKenney’s recipe, I didn’t think it proved essential.)
The last time I tried a Greek yogurt-based substitution, I wasn’t too impressed: The yogurt’s tang announced itself too loudly. So my expectations were low here, especially since this dip looked pale and watery coming out of the oven. But I was surprised, upon first taste, by its distinctly vegetal flavor, which was likely due to the combination of scallions and the Old Bay’s celery seeds; even my tasting partner remarked on the celery flavor. The combination of the lemon and tart Greek yogurt was a little strong for my taste, but the more I ate, the more I actually appreciated the swap.
The base of this recipe is lighter, yes, but that turned out to be a good thing: It meant the chunks of crab stood out more, both in texture and flavor, instead of competing with a cup of mayo. This recipe also had the highest ratio of crabmeat to base (16 ounces to 14 ounces), which likely also helped to highlight the crab itself. Next time though, I’d probably cut back on the lemon and maybe even the scallion to lessen that green flavor.
Winner: A tie, perhaps?
Do you want your crab dip to highlight the crab, or do you want it to embody the decadently creamy mental image of crab dip? That’s the question that this decision comes down to. In terms of sheer luxury and richness, the winner is undeniably the McCormick recipe. However, a base that rich can also work to the opposite effect: It risks appearing as though it’s trying to compensate for a lack of seafood, and admittedly, it does compete a little with the crab. But if I were at a party and this dip was there too, you’d have a hard time pulling me away from the table. In other words, make this dip to impress.
By contrast, I also have to give the win to Katie Webster’s “healthy” version for the way it shines the spotlight on the crab. The dip’s lightness really lets the crab speak for itself, and If I’m spending $25 on eight ounces of lump crabmeat, I certainly want to taste it. I’d make this recipe again, with the caveat that I think it could be improved with substitutions borrowed from the other recipes: less lemon and scallion, a skosh more mayo, and cheddar instead of or in addition to parm. That, I think, would be the best of both worlds.
I’ll end on a note that none of the recipes specified: I understand the urge to dig in immediately, but as with any good lasagna or baked mac and cheese, I found that all of these dips were better once they’d cooled for at least 10 minutes.
Additional photo credits: crab dip photos by Bettina Makalintal
