The patio at Frööd. | Markus Gmeiner / Vorarlberg Tourismus
The small state in western Austria, a hotbed of the early Alpine ski scene, has become a culinary attraction for gamey stews, cheesy noodle dishes, and fluffy pancakes
In certain ski resorts like St. Moritz and Zermatt in Switzerland, and Megève in France, it seems as if international tourists rule the streets, cafes, and slopes. High seasons feel incredibly busy, low seasons become uncomfortably deserted, and nothing appears permanent, not even the restaurants. That’s not the case in Vorarlberg, Austria’s smallest, westernmost federal state and the so-called cradle of Alpine skiing, where people have been tearing up fresh powder since 1885. Mountain huts are full of year-round residents, towns trace their origins back to the 14th century, and fourth-generation restaurant owners maintain long-held traditions like hearty käsespätzle (egg-noodle mac and cheese), fresh arctic char from nearby lakes, deer stew with fist-size dumplings, boiled beef, and kaiserschmarrn (chopped up pancakes served with local custard).
That doesn’t mean the area is stuck in the past. Though it may not boast about its culture quite as loudly as neighbors in Germany, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, or even Austria’s own Tyrol region, Vorarlberg prides itself on its contemporary design, architecture, and — a relatively recent addition — buzzing food scene. Modern buildings sit alongside traditional construction. Music venues pop up among cattle ranches. And young hoteliers and chefs are opening plant-based cafes, high-altitude wine bars, and 19-course tasting menus among the cozy inns. Ask any longtime resident — the ones whose great-great-grandparents tended cattle long before the region was known for winter skiing — and they’ll tell you Vorarlberg has never been more exciting.
Michelle Tchea is the author of five bestselling books and owner of the culture-driven organization Chefs Collective. She has contributed to Travel and Leisure, The Guardian, and Time Magazine.
