Jenny Martinez’s riff on the Mexican corn salad is as easy to make as it is crowd-pleasing
Corn on the cob is a staple of summertime eating, but esquites, or Mexican corn salad, takes it to a tantalizing new level. This version, which is served in a glass or mason jar, comes from Jenny Martinez’s debut cookbook, My Mexican Mesa, y Listo!.
The elote man can be found on the streets of Mexico and in LA. They walk around with a cart and sell corn on the cob or corn like this, in a cup. Nowadays, you can also find places that are a bit like ice cream shops but instead sell all these street foods, including chamango (spicy mango in a cup like a slushy). The elote man is evolving. But every kid knows the sound of the bell if he passes by, and people run out like it’s the ice cream truck. We still get them, and my kids get excited — but before they were $1 each and now it’s literally $5 for one corn on the cob!
After they remove the kernels from the cob, they lightly char the corn in a hot pan, which lends a smoky flavor. My dad would always tell us to add a little sugar to the corn water to help sweeten it as it boils, as some are naturally sweet and some are not. These days people get creative and add crushed hot Cheetos or Takis to the top in place of the chile powder.
Esquites Recipe
Serves 6-8
Ingredients:
8 fresh white corn ears
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter
Tapatio hot sauce (optional)
1 cup shredded Cotija cheese
1 cup mayonnaise
8 teaspoons chile powder
Juice of 2 limes
Equipment:
8 wooden skewers
8 mason jars or tall glasses
Instructions:
Step 1: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. While the water is coming to a boil, shuck the corn; discard the corn silk but reserve the fresh corn husks.
Step 2: Add the corn cobs, salt, and sugar to the boiling water; add more water to cover, if necessary. Fully cover the corn with the fresh husks — this adds flavor to the cooking water and creates a steam blanket. Cover the pot with a lid and cook until the ears are completely tender and a broth has formed, about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the corn from the pot and set aside to cool for 5 minutes. Reserve 1 cup of the corn broth.
Step 3: Take a wooden skewer and insert it into the middle of what was the stem end of the cooked corn. Use the skewer as a handle to help you hold the corn in place and then cut the kernels off the cobs with a knife.
Step 4: Heat a dry cast-iron skillet or comal over medium-high heat, and cook half of the kernels, stirring constantly, until they are lightly charred, 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside and repeat with the second half.
Step 5: In another large pot, melt the butter over medium heat; stir in the corn and the reserved cup of broth.
Step 6: You can now begin to assemble your esquite in mason jars or tall glasses. I like to start by adding a couple dashes of hot sauce to each glass, then layering 1 tablespoon of cheese, 1⁄4 cup of corn, and 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise. Repeat the layers until it’s filled, and top off with 1 teaspoon chile powder, lime, and hot sauce.
Excerpted from My Mexican Mesa, Y Listo!: Beautiful Flavors, Family Style. Copyright @ 2024 by Jenny Martinez. Reproduced by permission of Simon Element, and imprint of Simon & Schuster. All rights reserved.
Dina Ávila is a photographer in Portland, Oregon.
Recipe tested by Ivy Manning
