Chicharrones at Chicharronera Cacique Acserí. | Chicharronera Cacique Acserí/Facebook
Bone marrow with native maiz tortillas, chicharrones platters at a local party spot, cheese-stuffed empanadas at a decades-old institution, Central America’s best vanilla ice cream, and more in Costa Rica’s capital
For decades, surfers and eco-tourists filled planes to Central America’s most popular travel destination, but food-focused travelers have found lots to love in Costa Rica’s waters and jungles, too. The country’s various microclimates steadily funnel a bounty of seafood and produce into the bustling capital of San José, where ingredients make their way into casados (smorgasbords of rice, beans, meat, salad, and more), bocas (bar snacks), and vibrant seafood specialties. Make time to eat at one of the city’s family-run sodas típicas, sample classic dishes like gallo pinto (the country’s take on rice and beans), and explore the stands of the Central Market as well as the country’s street food offerings.
Thanks to social media there’s more awareness of the Central American hotspot’s viral street foods like quesopintos, where gallo pinto is folded into a fried cheese turnover, or caldosas, an opened bag of local chips filled with ceviche. While there are several Argentine grills in San José to satisfy carnivores, Costa Rican-style kebabs eaten with tortillas and hot sauce at a pinchos stand is the local vernacular for carne asada.
Furthering a shift towards regional dining, high-end restaurants like Sikwa, where chef Pablo Bonilla plays with the Indigenous pantry and jungle-to-table cooking, and Conservatorium, a grill concept based on dry aged local cattle, put Costa Rica’s ingredients and traditions at the forefront.
Costa Rica’s waves, tropical rainforests, and beaches remain as stunning as ever. For whenever travelers are able to plan their escape to paradise, here is Eater’s guide to eating and drinking like a savvy Tico in San José.
Bill Esparza is a James Beard Award-winning writer and author of LA Mexicano.
