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Sea bass yuzu kosho hand rolls at an ambitious modern spot, birria breakfast tacos at a neighborhood go-to, churros from a 30-year veteran vendor, cocktails at a tropical speakeasy, and more of PV’s best meals
Puerto Vallarta prides itself on being “the friendliest city in the world,” and hospitality runs through many locals’ veins. But the city of about half a million residents existed long before The Night of the Iguana started attracting visitors. Unlike many other vapid coastal tourist destinations, Vallarta has a strong regional culinary identity, despite growing rapidly, thanks in large part to residents born and raised in the city who still have stakes in the restaurant scene.
The local style of cooking is a product of the stunning landscape, located between the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains on one side and the Banderas Bay in the Pacific Ocean on the other, and the cuisine is historically anchored by tropical ingredients, mariscos culture, and sazón that evokes the bold flavors of Jalisco and the neighboring state of Nayarit.
A day of dining for a typical Pata Salada (that’s Mexican coastal surf speak for a native of Puerto Vallarta) usually involves going out to eat tostadas piled high with ceviche molido during the hottest hours of the day; or locals might have a burrita, Vallarta’s very own style of burritos stuffed with nothing but smoked fish or shrimp with grilled vegetables, kissed on the grill until crispy around the edges. At night, you can keep it old-school with excellent tacos al pastor or visit one of the city’s ambitious modern restaurants that exist alongside traditional establishments. Don’t forget to seek out a nightcap of raicilla, the region’s local mezcal, on the beach. Vallarta has a way of making you feel like you can never spend enough time there — but you can try.
Paola Briseño-González is a cooking writer and recipe developer from Puerto Vallarta based in Los Angeles, California.
